Journal of Applied Cosmetology

From Filling to Function – the Evolution of Dermal Fillers

Uwe Wollina — 2025-01-29

Dermal fillers first gained interest in the late 19^th century, but their safety and efficacy were inadequate. But the development of fillers continued and is going on. Temporary fillers like cross-linked hyaluronic acid are widely used nowadays. Biostimulatory semi-permanent fillers like poly-L-lactic acid and calcium hydroxylapatite offer an increase in longevity with excellent safety. Newer developments are the hybrid fillers that often combines a temporary and a semi-permanent filler type to obtain better rheological qualities for a natural look. With the development of products on the market, our understanding of fillers has moved from substitution of lost volume to stimulation of autologous cells, such as fibroblasts, endothelial cells, and adipocytes. An improved understanding of tissue regeneration will support the design of a new filler type for specific interaction with the host tissue.

Open-label uncontrolled, monocentric study for the evaluation of the efficacy and safety of mesotherapy using a solution of 0.1% hyaluronic acid, amino acid, and glutathione in the face

Antonio Scarano — 2025-02-11

Aging research has focused on the accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) over time, which are a main contributor to the aging process. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the efficacy and safety of the intradermal solution containing 0.1% HA, amino acids, and glutathione for the treatment of skin damage caused by free radicals. A total of 75 subjects were screened and analyzed, and 60 subjects were included in the study. Eligible subjects underwent baseline assessments and received 10 injections of solution of 0.1% HA, amino acid, and glutathione, one injection every 7 days for 8 weeks plus one injection every 15 days for four weeks. The efficacy of the treatments was evaluated by measuring the level of oxidative stress and GAIS at day 90. Photographic documentation of the treated regions was taken at all visits. The oxidative stress level had significantly improved at day 90 compared with the baseline as the mean at baseline was 477.4 while at day 90, it was 356.2. The GAIS improved significantly after 90 days, and the oxidative stress level significantly improved at day 90 compared to baseline as the mean at baseline was 477.4, while at day 90, it was 356.2. Based on the safety and efficacy data presented, SKIN OX is likely to be a valuable tool for treating skin damage due to free radicals and an asset to counter the effects of aging.

Effect of Microneedling with Growth Factors and Low-Level Light Therapy on Trichotillomania Treatment

Sangbum Han — 2025-04-08

Trichotillomania (TTM) is a compulsive disorder causing hair loss and emotional distress. While behavioral therapies are common, dermatological treatments are less explored. This study examines a novel combination therapy of microneedling with growth factors and low-level light therapy (LLLT). To evaluate the efficacy and safety of combined microneedling and LLLT as an adjunctive therapy in promoting hair regrowth in TTM. A 26-year-old female underwent 0.2 mm microneedling with growth factors and LLLT twice weekly for four months. Outcomes were assessed through hair regrowth observation and safety evaluation. The patient achieved visible hair regrowth without side effects after eight sessions over four months. Scalp condition improved, and treatment was well-tolerated. This combined therapy is effective and safe for TTM-related hair loss, offering potential as an adjunctive treatment. Further research with larger cohorts is recommended.

Demonstration of Lower Efficacy of Organic Preservative Compared to Synthetic Formulations Using the Example of a Cosmetic Emulsion

Dominika Korzekwa — 2025-04-02

Preservatives are chemical substances used in many industries to ensure the shelf life of products by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms. This study aimed to determine the effectiveness of natural plant-based substances as preservatives in emulsions, compared to synthetic preservative systems. Based on the research, it can be concluded that the most effective preservative was a synthetic preservative with INCI: Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid, and Aqua. Additionally, airless packaging provides better product protection against microorganisms.

A combination treatment protocol using PEGylated hyaluronic acid hydrogel, non-ablative laser and hyaluronic acid skin boosters for rejuvenation of the perioral area

Annebeth Kroeskop — 2025-01-14

Personalized treatment with a combination of aesthetic protocols targets the different root causes, contributing to the patient’s aesthetic concerns and optimizes outcomes. This report presents the outcomes of a new protocol combining PEGylated hyaluronic acid (HA) hydrogel, non-ablative laser, and non-crosslinked HA skin booster to rejuvenate the perioral area within a single treatment session. This was a retrospective analysis of medical data from subjects who had undergone treatment with the perioral rejuvenation protocol at Kalea Clinic in the Netherlands. All subjects had been treated with the 3-step protocol involving: (i) injection with PEGylated HA hydrogel 24 mg/ml to contour and shape the lips; (ii) full-face treatment with a non-ablative, fractional diode laser with a wavelength of 1470 nm to smooth and tighten the skin; and (iii) full-face mesotherapy treatment with injection of non-crosslinked HA (18 mg/mL) with 0.01% calcium hydroxyapatite, glycine, and L-proline to improve skin quality. Follow-up visits took place at 6 (Visit 1) and 12 weeks (Visit 2), at which point physicians and patients assessed lip fullness and skin wrinkling on separate validated rating scales. Additional subjective assessment of treatment results was performed by both physicians and patients using the 5-point Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS). Physician and patient satisfaction with treatment results was also assessed. Data were analyzed retrospectively for 14 female subjects with a mean age of 39.1 years. At baseline, lip fullness was rated as moderate by 71% of physicians and 64% of patients. At visit 2, 71% of lips were rated as thick and 14% as full by both physicians and patients. The mean skin wrinkle score improved from 1.30 (visible wrinkles with clear indentation) at baseline to 0.79 (fine wrinkle, slight indentation) at Visit 2. Mean GAIS scores for both physicians and patients indicated appearance was ‘improved’ at Visit 1 (mean scores of 3.0 and 2.7, respectively) and ‘much improved’ at Visit 2 (mean scores of 2.4 and 2.3, respectively). All treatments in the protocol were well tolerated. Both physicians and patients were satisfied with the combination protocol, and all patients reported they would be ‘likely’ or ‘very likely’ to recommend it. The combination of three different treatment modalities (PEGylated HA hydrogel, non-ablative laser, and HA mesotherapy) in a single treatment session demonstrated effectiveness in rejuvenating lips and perioral area. The complementary treatments were tailored to the individual for a natural-looking effect.

Polycaprolactone (PCL) as an Adipose-Derived Stem Cells (ADSCS) stimulator – the experimental trial

Oleksandr Turkevych — 2025-04-09

This study investigates polycaprolactone (PCL, 25–50 μm microspheres in carboxymethylcellulose gel) as a stimulator of adipose-derived stem cells (ADSCs) for collagen production and tissue regeneration. Histological, immunohistochemical, and electron microscopy analyses in a rat model (n=25; 20 treated, 5 controls) over 21 days demonstrated significant ADSC activity (95% CD34 positivity), fibroblast proliferation (>50% increase), angiogenesis (55% CD31 positivity), controlled inflammation (low CD45), and organized collagen formation. Results indicate PCL’s superiority in regenerative medicine applications, offering minimal adverse reactions compared to traditional stimulators.