Green Ingredients in Cosmetic Dermatology. Molecular Aspects of Ingredients and Carriers

Abstract

In healthy skin keratinocytes provide the essential function of self-renewing themselves, regularlycommunicating with each other, with dermis and the immune system by a delicate balance of bioche-mical signals and cellular responsiveness, which slow down during the aging and photoaging pheno-mena. The main goal of Cosmetic Dermatology is to formulate Clinically Correct Cosmetics basedon the use of effective and safe natural active ingredients and carriers, skin and environmentally-friendly. It has been shown by different studies that nanochitin-hyaluronan (CN-HA) and nanochitin-lignin (CN-Lignin) block copolymeric nanoparticles may contemporary act as active carriers andingredients ameliorating the skin sensible and prematurely aged. On one side they entrap into theirstructure and load different active ingredients, such as, for example, antioxidant and immunomodu-lant compounds, releasing them at the right skin site at the right time. On the other side they are meta-bolized from the enzymes to glucosamine, acetyl glucosamine, glucose, hyaluronic acid (CN-HA) orto polyphenols (CN-lignin), and used from the skin cells as raw material and energy useful to repairtheir damages, caused from the environment and the aging processes. The paper reports some exam-ple of the results obtained in vitroand in vivobyte use of CN-HA and CN-Lignin, entrapping differentactive ingredients, to produce innovative Cosmetics and advanced medications.